Ben Ohau Haute Route, Ben Ohau Range

Why this route matters

The original report opens with a strong endorsement: the author rates the Ben Ohau Haute Route as one of the best ski tours they have done in 35 years of ski touring.

The important comparison is with similar route-style tours, not hut-based glacier touring, extreme descents, or single summit objectives. This is presented as a journey through exceptional Ben Ohau terrain rather than a destination climb.

The route is described as a series of five steep powder ski runs, linked by three direct and interesting uphill skins, with some boot packing added for spice. The descents are fall-line skier and snowboarder lines for strong parties.

Season, snowpack, and timing

The route should ideally be done in winter with powder snow settled to reasonably low levels. A preceding southeast storm without wind is described as ideal.

The skiing is mostly on south to east faces and is intended to be descended in powder. Late-season south faces may be firm, icy, and intimidating.

The uphill sections are on north-facing terrain exposed to solar radiation, which can become more reactive in the longer warmer days of spring.

Good snow stability is required. The original report specifically points readers to the Ohau avalanche forecast for the day of the trip, 12 August 2022, as an example of the snowpack they were managing.

Part 1: Whale Stream

Access in the original trip was by helicopter from Glentanner with The Helicopter Line. The report notes that flying in makes the trip easier, but also means the party does not know the snow conditions until landing and is committed once dropped off.

The first stage is a descent between the North Branch of Whale Stream and the South Branch. The linking couloir has a dog-leg bend near the top, which raised immediate questions about ice, wind stripping, and stability.

The couloir, known in the report as Alan’s Run, began crusty but skiable. Around the bend it changed to powder on 40 degree slopes, giving a 400 m descent to a safe regrouping point and further powder turns to around 1380 m.

Water could be refilled around 1300 m where South Whale Stream was open. Mobile coverage was present in the North Branch and down into the South Branch.

Part 2: South Whale to Jacks Stream

The second stage climbs south out of South Whale Stream toward the col east of Mt Dun Fiunary, then descends into Jacks Stream.

The report stresses timing: heli drop-offs start at 9am at the earliest, and organizing gear, testing snow, and taking photos all consume daylight. The party wanted to climb before solar warming affected the north-facing slopes above.

They used a small central rib as the safer line, zig-zagging up until the valley angle eased and allowed a more direct ascent.

After roughly 600 vertical metres and more than an hour and a half of climbing, they reached the col. The descent side was corniced, so the party cut and removed part of the cornice before entering the face.

The descent into Jacks Stream started around 45 degrees and delivered another 400 m of skiing. At this point the party no longer had mobile coverage, and the original report suggests an inReach as a sensible backup.

Part 3: Jacks Stream to East Branch Stony Stream

The third stage heads south from Jacks Stream toward Pk 2206 and then drops into East Branch Stony Stream.

This was unknown terrain for the party. They had previously skied Jacks Stream and seen Pk 2206 from the east, but had not linked this section.

The lower valley included a safer rib through the middle. Higher up, the route steepened near a rocky outcrop, and the party kept close to the rock to reduce exposure to wet slide paths from the ridge above.

From the valley they climbed about 500 vertical metres to the col, arriving around 3:30pm. From there they chose to boot pack 80 vertical metres up and over Pk 2206 rather than descend through the southern col option.

The descent into Stony Stream was committing because returning to Jacks Stream would no longer be realistic. The only practical options were completing the planned route or descending Stony Stream toward the Dobson Valley, which the author describes as long and arduous.

Part 4: Stony Stream to the Kaimakamaka saddle

The fourth stage is described as the crux. The route climbs from Stony Stream toward the saddle just south of the Kaimakamaka Peaks.

The plan was to ascend roughly 500 m up the centre of the valley to the headwall under point 2392, then traverse south to gain height and boot pack to the ridge.

In the final sunlight the party reached the ridge but found rocky gendarmes that would be difficult and dangerous to negotiate in the dark with skis and boards on packs.

At this point they were fully committed: no helicopter pickup, no easy alternative, falling temperatures around -10 C, light touring gear, and no realistic overnight plan.

They chose to ski over the col into Irishman Stream. The descent happened by headlamp in deep powder, with limited visibility and uncertainty about what the slope did below.

Part 5: Descent to the road

From Irishman Stream the party used GPS to regain their bearings and climbed to the 2120 m col by headlamp.

The descent from the col happened in bright moonlight. The report describes excellent snow through basin after basin, with the main concern being whether snow would run out lower down.

The line steepens around 1700 m and continues toward 1400 m. The party expected possible thin snow or dust-on-crust, but instead found increasingly good powder lower down.

The final gully delivered what the author calls an 1100 m moonlit run. Down around 1000 m, they moved true left to gain an animal-tracked ridge and walked down to the farm track, changing into running shoes.

The party landed by helicopter at 9:30am and reached the car at 11:30pm, making it a 14 hour day. The report suggests a fitter party could reduce that by several hours, but a strong level of skiing is required.

Equipment and alternatives

The original report specifically recommends ice axe, crampons, and trail shoes.

The full moon was important for the original party’s descent. Without moonlight, the author suggests making the route a two-day trip: land in North Branch Whale Stream, camp and tour locally, then start at first light on day two while gear is collected by helicopter.

The author closes by saying the route should not sound overly epic or difficult for the right party, but should be treated as a wonderful ski journey for those who are up to it.